mercoledì 27 aprile 2011

Cafayate, Argentina

(10-12/04/11)
È un pueblito pequeño a circa 4 ore da tafí. Qui da vedere ci sono le "7 cascate", nome turistico per attirare i turisti. In realtà si tratta di una camminata molto bella lungo il Rio Colorado. La prima cascata è a circa tre quarti d'ora dal delta del fiume, le altre a seguire. Noi ci arriviamo senza guida ed à abbastanza complicato, sembra che siano stati creati vari percorsi per depistarti. In ogni caso molto divertente! Al ritorno incontriamo una guida Quechua (Daniel) che ci impressiona nello spiegarci cos'è per gli indigeni il Pachamama. Praticamente tutto è Pachamama, l'equilibrio tra gli elementi, inti (sole)......ma anche tutti gli esseri viventi ne fanno parte, ma non si limita al racconto. Inveisce contro tutte le religioni che, citando Marx, sono l'oppio del popolo. Dice che non sono altro che "industrie" create per limitare la libertà della gente e far credere loro in cose che non esistono. Molto pratico, discutibile o meno mi affascina la sua visione.
Alloggiamo "Al Balcón", bell'ostello dove incontriamo alcune persone interessanti tra cui una coppia da Barcellona che viaggia da un anno e dei simpaticissimi fratelli di Mendoza che sanno fare un asado buonissimo. Passo una bella serata con i fratelli ed il "dueño" dell'ostello che canta e suona la chitarra molto bene - folklore!
Visitiamo la Quebrada de las Conchas: montagne con stratificazione di minerali che danno loro una conformazione unica. Qui conosciamo una coppia "porteña" che rincontriamo a Tilcara (in maniera fortuita).
Breve parentesi, molto deludente, sulle pinture rupestri, o quello che dicono essere. 2 rocce con pinture di dubbia provenienza e poco interessanti.
Vamos a Salta!

sabato 16 aprile 2011

MENDOZA - TUCUMÁN - TAFI DEL VALLE

(31/03-09/04/11) Mendoza has the driest weather I've ever experienced. The Andes block any wind coming from the Pacific Ocean. The earthquake in 1861 destroyed the whole city so it was rebuilt with large squares (for evacuation) and wide avenues. There's a huge park (covering about 800 hectares) with a hill hosting a monument in the memory of San Martin who crossed the Andes to free Argentina from the Spanish.
There's not much else in Mendoza city but the countryside has loads to offer. The most famous wine in Argentina is made in Mendosa, a pity I don't like wine :(
We stayed 2 nights at the Estacion Mendoza Hostel - $40 per night - very spacious with a big garden and pool outside (out of use as most pools in Argentina in this season). The remaining nights my cousin Silvia lets us sleep at her house (gracias Silvia!!). It was great meeting all the family in Mendoza for the first time. My cousin Mariano, his wife Analia and 1 yr old daughter Antonella were extremely frendly and helpful. We pratically spent the whole week end whith them : tested the Mendoza night scene and had some delicious chicken asado at some country resort in Cacheuta - almost in the middle of nowhere.
They also took us to the Aconcagua park at about 3000 m. The Aconcagua itself almost reaches 7000 m. The view of the mountains is simply awesome.
Tried out my uncle Mario's vegetarian restaurant (great broccoli and pumpkin tartas), and met the rest of my grandmother's brothers (with families) on the last day- LOTS OF FOOD!! Some Italian culture has remained!
Next stop was Tucuman. The main reason we stopped here was to meet my dad's cousin Diana and her family. They took us to the mountains surrounding Tucuman (Villa Nougués and San Javier), visited the Dique de Cadillal and a beautiful waterfall (forgot the name).
The family was great, Diana is an excellent cook, had lots of vegetables and tried the regional dish Locro - DELICIOUS!
My cousins took us out around the city, and dancing at POOLPERIA (music in clubs here is pretty crap but still had a lots of fun).
We stayed at the OH hostel (Calle Santa Fe' - $45) - extremely spacoius and with all the commodities. Had the pleasure to meet Miguel and Juan and enjoyed a great Asado night altoghether! GREAT!!! THANK U GUYS!!
It is so true that Asado in Argentina is the best, there are so many different meat cuts which we don't grill in Italy - Matambre, Vacio, Picaña..
We were suppose to leave Tucuman on the Friday but had too much fernet+coke during the "Asado and dancing freaky night" and couldn't make it out of bed.
On Saturday we headed out to Tafí del Valle (at about 2000 mt above sea level). Nice mountainy town but not much to do.. it was damn freezing! Stayed at the Querencia Hostal - really cosy!