martedì 3 maggio 2011

Bolivia: first impressions

Out of the 3 countries we've visited so far, Bolivia stands out the most. Culture and local traditions were evident from the first day we set foot here: the people, the food, the music, the landscape..About 60% of the population is indigenous.
We see lots of poverty, people living in huts in the middle of the desert without running water or electricity.
So far we have only been in the Bolivian "altiplano", so between 2000-4000m above sea level. People here tend to be less open and don't trust outsiders, not even Bolivians from the low plains (our guide in Uyuni explains this to us). Most will not want to speak to you, nor let you take pictures of them. Nonetheless we do meet lovely, friendly Bolivians and I think that speaking good Spanish may sometimes help...not when it comes to old grannies who only speak Quechua. People seem to be calm, quite reserved but helpful. In the past, the population has suffered a lot and people still mention how each neighbouring country has stolen land from them. We sometimes get the feeling that they victimise themselves however this may well be just a wrong impression. Bolivians haven't had any luck with their governments either.. Evo Morales, their president since 2006, is a former cocalero (coca leaf grower) and supposedly very close to the indigenous people. However we have yet to meet one person who is happy with their current government. It seems drug trafficking has at least tripled since Morales is in power (the DEA was kicked out a few years ago), furthermore prices have risen considerably leading to various protests throughout the country, causing just a general dissatisfaction. We encounter a peaceful bloqueo just outside Tupiza. Some people are scared Bolivia could start to resemble Venezuela or Cuba due to Morales' strong relationship with these countries.
The food here is also very typical and varied. We try to taste everything (regardless of the numerous stomach aches and intestinal problems) but there are just too many dishes, as well as an infinite variety of potatoes!
Sopa de Maní: Peanut soup
Mondongo: Pork with some sort of spicy sauce
Chicharrón de llama: a sort of llama stew
Saice-Ranga: minced beef with a spicy sauce
Picante de Pollo: spicy chicken
...and loads more!!

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