Paraty, Brazil

(16/02-22/02) Paraty is just great! They call it the "Venice of Brazil" because it floods every time it rains. The town is full of colonial architecture and "feels" less touristy than other places we've seen so far. We stay at the Sereia Do Mar Hostel, located on Jabaquara beach, a 20 min walk from the town centre- unfortunately up a very steep hill! The hostel is by far one of the best we've stayed at in Brazil. it's right in front of the beach, very spacious, with a restaurant and live music at night. They also have free kayaks which we decide to take advantage of one morning, discovering to our disappointment that the sea we have in front of the hostel turns into a swamp when it gets very hot. After kayaking through muddy water and a very scary encounter with a dog on the isolated island just across from the beach, we decide to search for some "real" beaches. We go to Trindade ( 40 min bus ride) which offers 5 beaches, the Praia do Caixadaço can only be reached by hiking across a forest, lots of surfing going on, the waves are huge!!
The following day we visit la Ilha do Pelado - you get on these boats for R$5 which take you there from Praia do Gonçalo. The island has 3 small beaches which almost disappear when the tide rises. Fabio decides to be adventurous and we set off through the forest, eventually discovering he path takes us all around the island (even though we end up in some private property and have to jump the fence).
We also visit the Cachoeira do Tobogá - this hugh rock under a waterfall where people slide down, some even surf it with their feet, it's crazy!
Paraty is full of Argentinians - can't imagine what it will be like further south! We meet an Argentinian couple on the way to Ilha do Pelado who've lived in Mexico and China! Definitely have to meet up with them when we reach Buenos Aires.
The Pre Carnaval Festival is on - every night there are different bands or blocos (e.g. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YjjFTUREr-g) playing, and the streets fill with barracas selling food, beer and cocktails. Sightseeing all day just kills us and we never seem to have the strength to party the night away Brazilian style.
Brunello is the owner of the hotel next door - we find out he's Venetian but has actually travelled the world. Fabio uses his PR skills and we to stay at his hotel one night for free. In exchange Fabio helps him purchase and install a computer. Fabio and I dream of how we could re-modernise his hotel, no wonder there aren't any guests!
Next stop, Sao Sebastiao and Ilhabela, many have spoken well of this island which hosts a beautiful rainforest, a UNESCO biosphere reserve.